Les Baux-de-Provence: hilltop village and castle in the Alpilles

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On a limestone spur in the Alpilles, Les Baux-de-Provence brings together village lanes, the remains of a fortress and broad views. This photo report distinguishes a walk through the village from a castle visit and the landscapes of the Val d’Enfer.

Les Baux-de-Provence, eagle's nest in the heart of Provence

The hilltop village of Les Baux-de-Provence fires the imagination and is a cradle of tales and legends. The outline of a medieval fortress stands against the jagged ridge of the Alpilles, bleached by the sun. The Castle of Les Baux-de-Provence, although largely destroyed still dominates the plain below, the wild ruins still give an idea of ​​the power of the lords of Baux-de-Provence in the Middle Ages.

The history of the lords of Les Baux merges with legend. In the 12th century they repeatedly challenged the Count of Barcelona for sovereignty over the County of Provence. In the 13th century they allied themselves with the Count of Anjou during the conquest of the Kingdom of Naples. The raids of Raymond de Turenne in the 14th century also filled the chronicles and inspired poets for centuries to come.

Many visitors come to Les Baux-de-Provence each year. It is one of the most beautiful and renowned tourist sites in the region. The picturesque village nestles beneath the crest of the promontory and its castle, sheltered from the Mistral. The Carrières de Lumières, housed in former quarries near the village, also attract many visitors.

The village of Les Baux-de-Provence is perched on a steep spur of the Alpilles, sheltered by the ridge and the castle walls. The spectacular setting resembles an eagle’s nest above the valley of Les Baux, with views across the plain to the Mediterranean Sea.

Perched above a marshy plain, this site was chosen by the first settlers as a refuge and lookout. It controls access to a pass through the Alpilles. The Eyguière gate was once the only entrance to the walled village. Today, visitors enter through a breach in the ramparts near the Col de la Vayède, where parking areas have been laid out.

The village of Les Baux-de-Provence reached its apogee in the 16th century, when the village had 3,000 inhabitants, most of its fine houses and mansions date from this period. The village had a long and inevitable decline, its inhabitants left to settle in the villages of Maussane, Paradou and Mouriès, close to water points. It was almost abandoned before being rediscovered by poets and artists who have given it international recognition. This is nowadays one of the most visited villages of Provence.

The village of the Baux-de-Provence

It is a maze of cobbled streets bustling with tourists and onlookers, enlivened by souvenir shops and craftsmen. We see beautiful mansions such as Manville Mansion, the King's House now housing the Tourist Office. A monumental window emerges, an enigmatic Latin inscription on the lintel is inscribed: "Post Tenebras Lux - 1571" "After darkness light." This biblical quotation is a Calvinist motto that recalls the troubled times of the wars of religion when Baux-de-Provence and its fortress were a Huguenot stronghold.

At the end of the village, a square is home to the chapel of the White Penitents and the Romanesque church of Saint-Vincent, reached by a broad flight of steps.

The Castle of Les Baux-de-Provence

The Castle of Les Baux-de-Provence is built on the summit plateau of a rocky outcrop 241 meters above sea level, overlooking the plain of the Crau. Only sections of wall remain of the formidable fortress, but they still have enough grandeur to stir the imagination.

The castle walls enclosed the old town of Les Baux. It takes imagination to picture the richly decorated halls, rooms and outbuildings of one of the richest and most powerful families in medieval Provence.

A staircase climbs the ruined rectangular keep, which rises above a sheer drop of 80 metres. The view extends over the Alpilles towards Maussane, Fontvieille, Arles, the Vaccarès lagoon and Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The place recalls Frédéric Mistral’s verses in Calendal, celebrating the ancient splendour and proud independence of the lords of Les Baux.

The castle is a separate visitor attraction from the village. Check its official visiting information for current opening hours, tickets and activities. Programmes change with the season; do not assume that every demonstration or evening event takes place on the day you visit.

History of Les Baux-de-Provence

In the Middle Ages, the lords of Les Baux became one of Provence’s powerful families. Alliances and marriages expanded their lands, while their claims to the County of Provence brought them into conflict with the house of Barcelona.

Raymond des Baux’s marriage to Étiennette, from the family of the counts of Provence, supported these claims. The Baussenque Wars in the middle of the 12th century ended with the ascendancy of the house of Barcelona.

The descendants of this family continued to play a role in Provence and beyond, notably alongside the Angevins in southern Italy.

When Charles of Anjou, Count of Provence, began the conquest of the Kingdom of Naples, he invited the turbulent lords of Provence and promised them fame and fortune : the brothers Raymond and Bertrand, sons of Barral des Baux joined him. The Baux family became one of the great families of Naples, competing for influence with the king with Duras and Taranto families. The conflicts in Naples also spread to Provence, where the surrounding areas were regularly devastated by mercenaries of all sides.

During the minority of Alix, heiress of the house of Baux, her guardian Raymond de Turenne was a formidable feudal warlord. Nicknamed "the Curse of Provence", he devastated the region with raids and pillaging for over 20 years.

After Alix’s death, the house of Les Baux died out and its lands were incorporated into the County of Provence. Les Baux became a barony.

"Au hasard Balthazar !" is the bold motto of the Lords of Baux who claim descent from King Balthazar, with the sixteen-pointed star as their emblem. According to legend, the star that led him to the stable in Bethlehem then leads him to Les Baux, where he settled.

During the Renaissance the village enjoyed peace and prosperity. Many of the fine houses and mansions that survive today date from this period.

The Wars of Religion and later opposition to royal authority marked the fortress’s history. After the town fell in 1632, the castle was dismantled. Over time, inhabitants moved towards the valley, before the site attracted renewed interest for its heritage and scenery.

The Val d'Enfer

The village of Les Baux takes its name from the landscape: Bau means escarpment, cliff. Les Baux-de-Provence and its castle are an exceptional site, it is also thanks to the landscape around that offers images and unique views. Wind and erosion have carved limestone, showing cornices and cliffs, strange and surprising forms, threatening even, the road to Maillane winds along a valley called Val d'Enfer (Hell valley).

Bauxite, an aluminium ore, was discovered near Les Baux in 1821. The pale limestone of the area was also quarried for building. Former quarries now house the Carrières des Lumières, with changing immersive exhibitions. This is a separate visit from the village and castle.

A little further on, the abandoned quarries of Sarragan house a wine cellar buried deep in the rock, where the temperature is ideal for storing wine.

Planning a visit to Les Baux-de-Provence

The village is explored on foot along cobbled streets, with steps and uneven ground. Follow the signs for visitor parking and check the charges displayed on arrival. Allow separate time for the castle and the Carrières des Lumières, whose opening and admission arrangements differ.

Visit les Baux-de-Provence in photos : slideshow

Accommodation near the Baux-de-Provence

Accommodation · Guest Houses in Provence PortalGuest houses near Les Baux-de-ProvenceExplore the selection of bed and breakfasts, gîtes and holiday rentals to plan your stay. bed and breakfast near Baux de Provence · bed and breakfast in the Alpilles

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Sights and activities

Tourist Office : web site www.lesbauxdeprovence.com

• Christmas in Les Baux-de-Provence
• Chateau des Baux
• Church of Saint Vincent
• Yves Brayer Museum
• Museum of Santon
• Hotel Manville
• Louis Jou Foundation
• Careers Lights
• Val d'Enfer
• Golf of Les Baux

Coming to the Baux-de-Provence

GPS coordinates N 43°44'38'' - E 4°47'43''

Location of the Baux-de-Provence : altitude 205 metres, 369 inhabitants, 11 km from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, 18 km from Fontvieille, 18 km from Arles, 18 km from Tarascon, 22 km from Eygalières, 30 km from Avignon, 70 km from Aix en Provence,