From the fountains of Cours Mirabeau to the old town’s streets, Aix unfolds through squares and historic townhouse façades. This photo tour follows a walk through the city and looks at its past as a Provençal capital.
Aix-en-Provence was the capital of the County of Provence until the Revolution. A refined, elegant and discreet city, the historical center around the Cours Mirabeau has many mansions of the 17th and 18th century giving an aristocratic, almost elitist character. The contrast is striking with Marseille located thirty kilometres south, a vibrant popular metropolis, major port open to the Mediterranean sea. The rivalry between the two cities dates back to their origins, Entremont (3km north of Aix) was the capital of the Gallic tribe of the Salyens, often in conflict with the Greeks of Marseilles, Aix was later the administrative capital of the province under the Romans, then capital of the County of Provence from the 13th century, and finally the seat of the Parliament of Provence and residence of the royal governor representing the central government.
Aix-en-Provence now has 150,000 inhabitants, it is a sub-prefecture of the Bouches du Rhone, and a cultural capital of Provence. Prestigious university center in the region, Aix is home to major, long-established universities of law and humanities. All year round cultural events take place including the Festival of Music in July, initiated in 1948, which has an international reputation. Aix has a unique heritage and has many museums including The Granet Museum, whose collections make it one of the richest museums in France.
Aix-en-Provence was the birthplace or home of many scholars and artists, among the most famous of whom are the writer Émile Zola and the painter Paul Cézanne (1839-1906). The contemporary painter Vasarely has a museum in his name.
The countryside around Aix is also famous for its charm. It was a favourite retreat of the Provençal nobility and has often been compared to the Tuscan countryside, fashionable in the 19th century.
A Stroll in Aix-en-Provence
A walk can begin around the Fontaine de la Rotonde at the entrance to Cours Mirabeau. This large sculpted fountain is one of the city centre’s main landmarks. The tourist office can help you choose a route according to the time available.
The Cours Mirabeau is the heart of the city, this magnificent avenue is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful in France, it is Peter Mayle's favourite. It separates the old town of medieval origin from the district built in the 17th century. On the sunny side of the avenue, the cafés and restaurants offer attractive terraces where the sun's rays are filtered by the foliage of the large plane trees, on the other side the 17th and 18th century mansions display their elaborate facades. The plane trees form a vault that protects passers-by from the heat and encourages walking and relaxation. Peter Mayle notes the perfect proportions of the avenue, in accordance with the urban planning principles of Master Leonardo da Vinci who considered harmony perfect when the "the street is as wide as the houses are high". The Fontaine aux neuf canons - Nine-Gun Fountain - and the Fontaine chaude - Hot Fountain - from which spring water flows occupy the centre of the roadway.
Aix is a city of water, fountains are numerous in the old city. Near the ruins of the Roman thermal baths, a thermal establishment is still in operation. In the centre of the medieval city, the town hall dates from the 16th and 17th centuries, it is surmounted by the elegant Clock Tower (early 16th century), built above a door of the medieval enclosure. Hôtel des Postes occupies the former Grain Hall, which separates the town hall square from the neighbouring Richelme Square.
Saint-Sauveur Cathedral brings together elements from several periods, from Late Antiquity to the eighteenth century. Its Romanesque and Gothic sections, baptistery and cloister reflect this long history. The Madeleine church stands near the courthouse, which occupies the site of the former palace of the Counts of Provence.
South of the Cours Mirabeau lies a neighbourhood built in the 17th and 18th centuries. Very well preserved,
it follows the principles of classical town planning and contains beautiful
buildings. In its center is the Fountain of the Four Dolphins, considered
by many as the most beautiful of Aix-en-Provence.
History of Aix-en-Provence
The Salyens had established their capital at the oppidum of Entremont, three kilometres north of Aix. In recurring conflict with the Greeks of Marseille, they appeal to the Romans to get rid of the threat posed by Celtic-Ligurian people. The consul Sextus Calvinus destroyed the oppidum of Entremont and founded Aquae Sextiae on the plain (Aix), a military town.
René of Anjou, King of Naples and Count of Provence Roman Aix developed after the foundation of Aquae Sextiae. Its monuments, water supply and administrative functions evolved over several centuries. During the Late Empire, it became the capital of the province of Narbonensis Secunda.
Long overshadowed by Arles, Aix became the capital of the County of Provence during the Angevin dynasty. King René, Count of Provence, made it his principal residence, with a court of a great cultural splendor. Provence is united to France in 1481, the Parliament of Provence was created in Aix in 1501.
The sixteenth century was marked by political and religious conflict. Charles V’s forces occupied Aix in 1536 before withdrawing. The persecution of Waldensian communities in the Luberon preceded the French Wars of Religion, which began in 1562; it should not be confused with their outbreak. Conflicts between Catholics and Protestants later affected the city as well.
Paul Cézanne, painterThe 17th and 18th centuries were
the heyday of the city where are built its beautiful mansions,
the nobility and gentry of Provence live in Aix and the surrounding
countryside, leaving the memory of a great refinement of the art of living in Provence.
During the Revolution, Aix was the prefecture of Bouches-du-Rhône from 1790 to 1799, before losing that administrative role to Marseille.
The 19th century was marked by the artists: the painter Cézanne many times represented the Sainte Victoire mountain, is the childhood friend of the writer Émile Zola.
Planning your visit
Explore the historic centre on foot. Museums, Cézanne sites and cathedral visits have their own arrangements: check opening hours and any booking requirements. Aix-en-Provence TGV station lies outside the city centre, so allow for the onward connection.
Accommodation at Aix-en-Provence :
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tourist office web site : www.aixenprovencetourism.com
Coming to Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence is located in the department of the Bouches-du-Rhône (13). The city is served by TGV train station.
GPS coordinates N 43°31'52'' - E 5°27'14''
Location of Aix-en-Provence : altitude 170 metres, 150 000 inhabitants, 30 km from Marseilles, 40 km from Lourmarin, 50 km from Cassis, 77 km from Arles, 82 km from Avignon .
Getaways · Guest Houses in Provence PortalMore getaways in ProvenceExplore further with my articles in the Getaways section of the Guest Houses in Provence Portal: The morning market in Aix-en-Provence on Place Richelme and The Four Dolphins Fountain.