Three tablecloths, Christmas Eve supper and thirteen desserts: these traditions bring distinctive flavours and symbols to Christmas in Provence.
The Christmas Eve table
Christmas Eve supper is an important family occasion in Provence. The traditional Christmas table combines popular customs and Christian symbolism, with variations between places and families.
In the calendal tradition, three white tablecloths and three candles evoke the Trinity. Wheat sprouted for Saint Barbara’s Day brings greenery to the table. An extra place, known as the “poor person’s place”, recalls the duty of hospitality.
From Christmas Eve supper to thirteen desserts
The gros souper, or Christmas Eve supper, is a meatless meal traditionally made up of seven dishes. Vegetables and fish may appear according to local customs. For practising Christians, the evening continues with Midnight Mass, followed by desserts. Thirteen recalls Christ and the twelve apostles; the selection varies from family to family.
The selection may include pompe à huile, a sweet olive-oil bread; raisins, almonds, dried figs, walnuts and hazelnuts; dates and fresh fruit; white and black nougat, and quince paste. These examples allow families to assemble their own selection rather than follow a single fixed list of thirteen desserts.
